Science news articles about 'breaking waves'

  • Research Analyzes Flow Structure Under Breaking Waves

    ... ocean, South Dakota State University professor Francis Ting studies the structure of breaking waves like those that pound the world`s coastlines ...
  • First direct evidence that breaking waves cause horizontal eddies

    ... ocean waves pass from deeper water into the shallow coastal regions, they begin to break, churning up the surf zone waters. At the edges of the crests of the breaking waves, horizontally-rotating eddies (vertical ...
  • Researcher examines motion of breaking waves

    ... State University Civil Engineering Professor Francis Ting was not. He has been studying the motion of breaking waves for nearly 25 years ...
  • Fluid Density and You

    ... 've ever been in the ocean in the vicinity of large breaking waves and have been unfortunate enough to get steamrolled by a wall of whitewater, you may have noticed how much more difficult ...
  • Flow Structure Under Breaking Waves Analyzed

    The study of wave structure and turbulence helps provide valuable information to predict how often waves are generated, the velocity of them, how long they last and their temporal extent.
  • Technology improves salmon passage at hydropower dams

    ... a presentation Wednesday at Waterpower XVI. The 3-D model was unusual because it included breaking waves on the surface, while most other river models ...
  • New research sheds light on freak wave hot spots

    ... around river mouths and coastal inlets, restricting accessibility for shipping due to large, breaking waves near the inlet, or resulting in erosion ...
  • Rip currents pose greater risk to swimmers than to shoreline

    ... ; they deploy seismometers to measure the noise created by breaking waves. "It appears that very slow, long ... ," said Dr. Bokuniewicz. "We are hopeful that seismometers can be used to measure wave patterns that we can't easily observe in any ...
  • Ocean stirring and plankton patchiness

    ... they studied the balance between localised increases in phytoplankton populations and small-scale mixing, such as that due to breaking waves, in creating patches. Patchiness was found to persist ...
  • Breaking waves in the stellar lagoon

    The Advanced Camera for Surveys (ACS) on the NASA/ESA Hubble Space Telescope has captured a dramatic view of gas and dust sculpted by intense radiation from hot young stars deep in the heart of the ...
  • TWIPS -- sonar inspired by dolphins

    ... not cope well with bubble clouds resulting from breaking waves or other causes, which scatter sound and clutter ... bubbly conditions resembling those found under oceanic breaking waves. Encouraged by their findings, they next conducted ...
  • Measuring air-sea exchange of carbon dioxide in the open ocean

    ... finding high variability between individual measurements, the researchers' analyses suggest that formation of bubbles in breaking waves – whitecaps – may increase gas transfer ...
  • TU Delft simulates breaking waves

    ... model to be continued right up to the shore, including how the waves break and overflow. Tsunami As this model directly ... underlying physics of currents near the shore, and how waves break on the shore. The advent of SWASH means ...
  • Breaking up isn't hard to do -- the secret lives of corals on dark and stormy nights

    ... replicas of the parent coral. For example, if waves generated in a storm break up a coral colony, the remnant ... by moderate wind speeds where small breaking waves, commonly called whitecaps, occur ...
  • Langmuir circulation inhibits near-surface water turbulence

    ... surface ocean, breaking waves are a major source of air bubbles and turbulent kinetic energy. During the presence of a consistent surface wind, these wave-generated bubbles, along with other surface material ...

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